Most color disasters are often due to lack of knowledge and understanding about the basics of hair color and how to properly apply hair color.
What is Hair Color?
Hair color is the practice of changing the color of hair. Hair color is basically the reflection of light off the colored pigments located in the hair shaft. This reflection of color is what we normally refer to as color.
Understanding the different types of hair color:
Semi Permanent- hair color usually includes an activator that develops the color and helps to raise the cuticle of the hair shaft so that color can be deposited. Semi Permanent does not penetrate into the cortex of the hair and usually last anywhere from 6-8 weeks. Semi permanent hair color does not contain any peroxide which means it is best to use if you are wanting to go darker oppose to lighter.
Demi Permanent- hair color that usually contain an ammonia substitute which lifts the cuticle layer allowing the color to penetrate the hair shaft. In combination of using a developer this can cause a lightening effect to the existing color. Demi permanent hair color usually last 2-3 months
Permanent - hair color that makes a permanent change in the pigment of the hair shaft. Because the natural color pigments are permanently altered, permanent hair color will not go back to its original color and does not wash out. Hair will revert back to its original color once it is grown out.
Temporary/Rinse- hair color that usually only last only through 2-3 washes. Temporary hair color surrounds the hair but does not penetrate into the hair shaft.
Law of Color:
Color Wheel Basic- Primary Colors consist of Red, Blue and Yellow. Secondary Colors are Orange, Green, and Violet. Tertiary colors are created by mixing the primary colors with the secondary colors. For example Yellow/Orange is considered a tertiary color
Complimentary colors- are colors that are opposite of the color wheel and play a big role when trying to tone out unwanted orange and red tones. For example lets just say that you colored your hair blonde or a golden blonde and your hair appears to have red/orange undertones. To correct this you would have to use a semi permanent toner/ color that is one shade darker than your dyed hair. After applying the toner you can also use a special Blue/Purple shampoo which helps to neutralize the red-orange color, making it disappear.
What are hair color levels?
Levels are the degree of color from lightness to darkness. Hair color is assigned on a level from 1-10 with 1 being the darkest (Black) and 10 being the lightest (Blonde)
What is the difference in 10, 20 and 30 developers?
The difference is the strength of the actual developer. The lower the numbers, the less powerful it is and also the lower the developer the longer it will take to lift the hair.
10 volume developer- is the standard oxidation strength. 10 volume developer opens the cuticle layer of the hair allowing the color molecules to penetrate and the color to be deposited in the cortex.
20 volume developer- lifts color 1-2 levels and also opens the cuticle. 20 developer is best used when the starting color is no more than 1 shade darker than the color you are trying to achieve.
30 volume developer- lifts the starting hair color 2-3 levels and works best when the desired color is no more than two levels lighter than the starting color.
40 volume developer- is really intense and damaging on hair. 40 developer is best used if you are wanting to go from a medium dark brown to a platinum blonde. Be sure to keep in mind the stronger the developer the harsher it is on the hair. You should also use a moisturizing conditioner after coloring hair to help restore the moisture balance lost during a coloring service.
What is the difference between Box Color and Salon (Professional) Color?
I personally do not believe there is a BIG difference between Box Color vs Salon Color. I think the difference lies in the service rather than the product. However, the difference I have noticed is that salon color last longer, is better quality and does not contain as many harsh ingredients that are found in box color. Most box colors contains metallic dyes which can be damaging on the hair. When using box colors you are limited to whats in the box and the hair color that's on the box whereas professional stylist using professional salon care products have the knowledge and skill set to mix and achieve customized colors. Although is does not take a rocket scientist to color hair I would strongly recommend going to a licensed stylist in order to get a coloring service done. Most professional stylist are educated and experienced when it comes to hair color. They know what products to use, what developer to use, how to properly apply it, the correct timing, and most importantly they understand the color theory.
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